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Images courtesy of Kevin Tachman
Alessandro Michele marks Gucci’s 100th anniversary by bringing logomania to a startling new degree.
When Alessandro Michele introduced he’d be trailing away from the normal trend calendar to indicate Gucci in bi-annual seasonless collections, he was doing what few had already executed. Little did we all know, the Italian trend maestro was winding up for extra along with his Gucci Aria assortment.
The gathering launched this morning as a movie consists of the outcomes of what Michele calls a “hacking lab” — the goal being one other luxurious drive within the steady of Kering manufacturers: Balenciaga. The time period “hacking” makes it clear this was not a collaboration, the place each events work collectively. This was a daring incursion into the world presided over by one other designer: Demna Gvasalia.
Named Aria — which is outlined as a solo efficiency in an opera — the gathering was extra of a dance with mushy and onerous in excellent concord. Or maybe Michele was suggesting that he would create an aria, by mixing two entities into one. Fits are marked with the names of each manufacturers within the slanted model of Balenciaga. There’s an unmissable Gucci motif takeover of the Balenciaga Hourglass sling bag. Iced, cuban hyperlink necklaces have charms that spell out each trend homes’ names (be aware the sneaky changing of the “g” in Balenciaga with Gucci’s notorious double Gs). And there’s a brand new tackle the Gucci emblem belt with a single G in a font just like Balenciaga’s “B” buckle.
Regardless of the saturation of labelling, Michele has captured right now’s obsession with logomania in a approach no different artist has, and maybe kickstarted a complete new enterprise technique: excessive trend fusions. And as collector’s gadgets, the Aria items may skyrocket in worth if this seems to be a one-time factor.
The setting for the movie, by Michele and Floria Sigismondi (who grew up in Hamilton, ON) is the Savoy Membership, a reference to the London resort the place founder Guccio Gucci labored and the place the flamboyant baggage of the company left a deep impression. Fashions walked a protracted hallway lined with strobe and stage lights to the beat of a hip-hop setlist sprinkled with Gucci references. Horsey motifs included harness-like corsets overtop tailor-made clothes and blouses. A studded crop prime with Balenciaga-approved shoulders was paired with using boots and a helmet. Michele’s style for glitter got here in a gathered-waist gown, harking back to flowing water, accessorized with a yellow stone-encrusted coronary heart (the organ, not the Valentine image).
The movie closes with Vitalic and David Shaw’s Ready for the Stars taking part in whereas fashions caress one another in a fairytale panorama. This fashion-filled forest is a tucked away secret — a breath of recent air. Simply what the Aria assortment and present panned out to be. And as lush greens and majestic white horses, bunnies and birds frolic to the lyrics “What the long run holds, ready for the celebrities to align,” the previous, current and future all tie collectively. Gucci is celebrating its 100th anniversary this yr, and whereas its historical past can’t be contained in a single efficiency, this milestone second marks the centenary in an revolutionary approach. It additionally stresses that nothing can final with out change.
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