I have been a magnificence editor for 20 years and it’s essential learn my house truths about skincare

I've been a beauty editor for 20 years and you

Alice Hart-Davis has been writing about magnificence and tweakments for 20 years and is extensively thought of by docs and types to be the UK’s main non-medical skilled on this subject so it is secure to say she is aware of her stuff. Alice has additionally trialled numerous procedures and grilled the world’s main medical consultants on all issues Botox, fillers, lasers and peels to infer all the things we have ever wished to find out about non-surgical beauty procedures.

It made sense, then, that she compiled all of her insider intel right into a ebook, The Tweakments Information, which is filled with informative, impartial and unbiased recommendation on which therapies do what, and precisely how.

To mark the launch of her ebook, Alice has shared an extract with GLAMOUR the place she delves into the usually complicated world of skincare and solutions actually each query you ever had about it.

Is It Skincare or Is It Medication?

How potent and efficient can skincare get earlier than it needs to be classed as drugs? That’s a great query.

Many non-pharmaceutical merchandise have loads of proof – within the type of medical trials – that they work. However by legislation a beauty product ought to make solely a beauty change to the pores and skin. If it makes a physiological change to the pores and skin – ie it really modifications the pores and skin in a roundabout way, which could be very a lot what most lively skincare is aiming to do – then, technically, shouldn’t or not it’s categorized as drugs?

The brief reply is – no, so long as the product isn’t making a medicinal declare. That applies even when the product is claiming to enhance wrinkles. So far as the Medicines and Healthcare Merchandise Regulatory Company (MHRA) is worried, wrinkles are usually not an opposed medical situation, so claims to cut back their look, or to extend the elasticity of pores and skin, fall below beauty regulation.

How Skincare Impacts The Method Our Pores and skin Genes Behave

There are about 2,000 genes associated to the best way our pores and skin ages. The examine of genes and the best way they operate known as genomics – and Procter & Gamble, the pharmaceutical firm behind manufacturers similar to Olay, has been finding out pores and skin genomics for over a decade.

‘The genes you’re born with received’t change by your life,’ explains Dr Frauke Neuser, Senior Director of Scientific Communications at Procter & Gamble, ‘however what is going to change is how dynamic these 2,000 genes are. We all know the group of genes that’s necessary to make you look younger. The following step is to overlay this with the lively elements we have now in our database and work out which skincare elements can have an effect on gene expression.’

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Even skincare merchandise on this space are usually not classed as medicines. That’s as a result of, even when they’re bettering the expression of sure genes – for instance, switching again on those that make collagen – the merchandise do not make medicinal claims.

Pure, natural, vegan, clear

Pure magnificence seems like a beautiful concept. Natural magnificence, too. All of us have a romantic notion that pure issues are good for us – and sometimes they’re – and we like to increase that to skincare. If we wish to eat pure, unadulterated meals, ideally natural, why wouldn’t we wish to use ‘pure’, unadulterated merchandise which are ‘sort’ to our pores and skin?

I’ve put these inverted commas as a result of – actuality examine – in terms of skincare, it’s not that easy. There’s no agreed definition of what ‘pure’ means in skincare. Many good natural- magnificence manufacturers (eg Weleda, Inexperienced Individuals, Dr Hauschka) have clear requirements and comply with them scrupulously; however in advertising and marketing phrases, it’s fairly doable to slap the phrase ‘pure’ on a product if there is only one pure ingredient in it – say, lavender oil.

Natural skincare is extra exact. In an effort to meet the requirements for natural certification, a product needs to be created from organically farmed elements. You may learn extra about this on the Soil Affiliation web site, www.soilassociation.org.

As for vegan skincare, there’s no authorized definition of exactly what makes a vegan magnificence product; however vegans could have a reasonably clear concept of the forms of ingredient that they wish to keep away from, ie something that’s animal-derived. So no beeswax and no collagen (which all comes from animal sources); however – maybe much less clearly no retinol, which is often derived from animal sources. Different elements, similar to hyaluronic acid and glycerin (which is every- the place), may be both animal-derived or plant-derived; you’ll have to examine which.

Then there’s the purpose made by beauty scientists, that skincare merchandise made with pure or vegan elements received’t be as efficacious as these containing artificial lively elements. Why? As a result of vegetation have cell partitions created from cellulose, which don’t get damaged down by the enzymes on the pores and skin, so a plant cell received’t actually ship its nutritious elements fairly so nicely.

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And I’m not towards any of those – every to their very own, and all that – however the clear magnificence motion actually winds me up.

Why ‘Clear Magnificence’ Drives Me Mad

Clear magnificence? In case you haven’t heard of it, it’s the sweetness equal of ‘clear consuming’; and in the identical means, it demonises an ideal many good magnificence manufacturers and merchandise and elements by implying they’re not as ‘clear’ as they need to be.

Clear magnificence is without doubt one of the greatest skincare actions simply now and, for those who ask me, one of the crucial maddening. It has grabbed the ethical excessive floor on doubtful reasoning – and it in some way man- ages to suggest that each one different skincare is, against this, ‘soiled’. Not a great phrase.

Why I discover the idea of unpolluted magnificence significantly irritating is that it manages to wrap all the usual arguments on this space into one huge virtuous package deal: the supposed supremacy of pure skin- care; the hackneyed ‘pure’ vs ‘chemical’ elements difficulty; scaremongering about the necessity to keep away from ‘nasties’ (a generic time period for elements that clear magnificence followers deem to be dangerous or, worse, ‘poisonous’); and provides longstanding, well- accredited elements – similar to parabens, mineral oil, and sulphates – an actual bashing alongside the best way. Clear magnificence does all this by utilizing emotional arguments and banking on folks’s lack of awareness of science to create a way of alarm and fear, that by utilizing merchandise that aren’t ‘clear’, persons are actively harming their pores and skin and their our bodies.
Oh, and clear magnificence often grabs part of cruelty-free magnificence and ‘free from’ tagging for good measure.

What does clear even imply in terms of natural magnificence?

An added annoyance for these of us within the magnificence trade is that the sweeping recognition of this motion is dragging beauty formulations again many years by chasing older, extra ‘pure’ elements and ignoring the extraordinary new ones that beauty science is conjuring up simply now.
Additionally, they’re simply mistaken, for those who ask me. Why do I say that? Right here goes.

Pure Doesn’t Imply ‘Higher’

I’m not ‘anti-natural’. I’m actually not. I simply really feel it wants saying that not all the things ‘pure’ is ‘higher’ for the pores and skin. Additionally, I object to the best way that people who find themselves passionate concerning the supposed advantages of pure merchandise argue their case by interesting to folks’s feelings relatively than by utilizing scientifically based mostly information. Even an emotionally-driven, non-scientific particular person like me can see that that doesn’t make sense.

Making Sense of the ‘Pure’ vs ‘Chemical’ Debate

I’ve put the phrases ‘pure’ and ‘chemical’ in inverted commas as a result of in scientific phrases, each substance on this planet, together with each substance utilized in making skincare and cosmetics, has a chemical formulation, whether or not it’s water or beeswax or a brand new form of high-performance anti-wrinkle neuropeptide. Utilizing the phrase ‘chemical’ as a keep on with beat a lot of recent skincare with is the kind of factor that drives beauty scientists mad.

Pure, Natural, Vegan, ‘Clear’

Ten years in the past, the Royal Society for Chemistry introduced that it could pay a £1million bounty to the primary one who might present them a chemical-free skincare product. After all, their cash is kind of secure as no such factor exists; they had been doing this to make a degree, and the supply nonetheless stands.
‘The problem has been set as a result of analysis by the UK’s beauty and toiletries trade reveals 52% of ladies and 37% of males actively search out chemical-free merchandise, demonstrating the deep-seated public confusion concerning the position and utility of chemical substances in every day life,’ mentioned the RSC’s press launch on the time, including that the favored notion of chemical substances was ‘one thing dangerous to be averted, a view shared by 84% of shoppers who really feel at some stage involved concerning the well being influence of the chemical substances of their on a regular basis merchandise’.

You would possibly say that’s nit-picking, however I believe it’s a degree price making. And, semantics apart, you might nicely choose skincare merchandise based mostly on pure elements. What I’d ask is, ‘Why?. A solution I usually get after I ask that is that folks wish to keep away from ‘harsh chemical substances’. That sounds truthful sufficient – however severely, what are these ‘harsh chemical substances’? Each formulation for each skin- care product that goes on sale, from kitchen-table concoctions to mass-market manufacturers, is topic to EU beauty laws, particularly to make sure that it comprises nothing dangerous. Nobody places lead in cosmetics, as was the favored observe within the 16th century. The principle goal of these laws is to make sure ‘human security’.

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When pressed on what these ‘harsh chemical substances’ are, naturals- followers will title classes of elements similar to parabens, that are used as preservatives; sulphates, that are foaming elements; and mineral-oil derivatives. (I’ll get onto the ins and outs of those under.) ‘They’re harmful,’ they’ll say. ‘I’ve learn a lot about it on-line. You actually shouldn’t use this stuff.’

Ah sure, on-line. I hope we’re all slightly extra conscious now of how simple it’s to get into an echo chamber of views on-line, which applies as a lot to skincare as to politics. When you’re in there, it turns into tougher to imagine that so many individuals might be mistaken… But these forms of elements talked about above are all completely secure to make use of on the pores and skin. Additionally, it’s price noting that many of those feared elements are pure derivatives. Parabens are present in espresso and blueberries; sulphates similar to sodium lauryl sulphate may be de- rived from coconut oil or palm oil.
For certain, numerous pure elements are nice for the pores and skin, however pure elements aren’t with out points. Any form of perfume may be irritating to the pores and skin, and that features important oils. Any ingredient derived from lemon or different citrus fruit sensitises the pores and skin to daylight. However as with most issues in life, there are few blanket guidelines of fine and dangerous right here; and as with many trendy beliefs about skincare, issues get taken out of context and blown out of proportion.

Lavender oil has a long-standing widespread popularity for serving to restore burns and heal wounds. But for those who search on-line for ‘lavender oil causes cell demise’, you will see quite a lot of references to face this up, together with the research displaying that lavender oil is certainly poisonous to pores and skin cells. However this experiment was achieved ‘in vitro’, in a lab, and uncovered cells on to lavender oil. In actual life, pores and skin cells reside amongst different tiny constructions in a swamp of mobile fluid within the dermal matrix of the pores and skin, and are shielded from the world by the stratum corneum, the outer layers of the dermis, so that you’d by no means get that oil instantly onto a pores and skin cell, even by wounded pores and skin. So utilizing lavender oil on pulse factors to calm you down (a really actual impact; I’d strongly advise you not to do that when driving) or to heal a burn shouldn’t be going to kill your pores and skin cells. Actually.

I might go on.

Years in the past, I chaired a debate on the Royal Society of Chemistry on behalf of the Society for Beauty Scientists (SCS). The talk was about Cosmetics, Chemical substances and the Reality, and we waded by both aspect of those points till the panel and the viewers had been each feeling exhausted. One second of readability for me got here when a youthful member of SCS stood as much as converse. ‘Look,’ she mentioned, ‘I’m a beauty formulator. I simply wish to put ahead the concept there isn’t any proper or mistaken; what there’s, is simply choices and decisions. So, for any given transient, I can select man-made or natural chemical substances. You’ve got to take a look at the efficiency of the product you are attempting to attain, the worth level that you’re retailing it at, and in addition the aesthetics. With that in thoughts, you provide you with a formulation involving a cocktail of chemical substances which can be a mixture of each pure and artificial.’

A selection – that’s what it comes right down to. I don’t wish to begin sounding as if I’m a ‘chemicals-only’ kind of particular person – I’m actually not however I do discover it tiresome that many individuals, significantly the followers of ‘pure’ magnificence merchandise, appear to guarantee that huge magnificence firms are in a roundabout way out to get them, and to spoil their pores and skin, by promoting merchandise containing harmful elements, which merely isn’t the case.


To recap what I mentioned above, there are not any poisonous elements in skincare. There actually aren’t. I actually object to the phrase ‘nasties’, too, which is used vaguely to demonise an entire host of beauty elements. So why accomplish that many individuals assume that many frequent elements are such an issue? Let’s check out the important thing elements, or ingredient teams, that folks assume are problematic.

What’s Fallacious with Parabens?
In case you’ve heard of parabens, the probabilities are that you just received’t just like the sound of the phrase. They’re dangerous, aren’t they? So many skincare merchandise proudly proclaim that they’re free from parabens. Certainly, parabens should be dangerous?

In a phrase – no, there’s nothing mistaken with parabens. They’ve been unfairly demonised by a mixture of dangerous science, media hype, and widespread hysteria.

What are parabens?
Parabens are generally used preservatives, that are good at doing their job – stopping the expansion of mould, fungi, and micro organism in beauty merchandise – with out irritating the pores and skin.

Parabens are derived from para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA), which is present in meals like blueberries and onions, so our our bodies are used to coping with the stuff. The parabens in cosmetics are usually not naturally derived, as a result of it’s cheaper to make them within the lab than to extract them from blueberries, however they’re ‘nature- similar’, which suggests they’ve the identical chemical formulation, so our our bodies convert them to PHBA and dispense with them.

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What are parabens referred to as and what do they do?
What are parabens referred to as on the packaging label? Parabens have names similar to methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, and isobutylparaben. 20 years in the past, you’d discover such parabens in most beauty merchandise that had water within the formulations, as preservatives to forestall contamination.

What do folks assume is mistaken with parabens?
However a analysis examine printed in 2004, which discovered parabens in breast most cancers tissue, modified all that. Might the parabens have discovered their means into the tumours from the sweetness merchandise these ladies may need used? Was frequent skincare inflicting most cancers? I bear in mind studying the headline at my desk on the Night Customary and, like most different ladies who learn it, feeling full horror – had been we killing ourselves within the pursuit of magnificence? The media seized on the story, and it shot all over the world, elevating extra questions than it answered. Have been parabens harmful? How had they acquired into the breast tumours? Had they triggered the tumours? Was it deodorant that was accountable?

My alarm quickly turned to bafflement, as a result of after I turned to my skilled contacts for data – the toxicologists, the skincare formulators, trade consultants – it appeared that the story had acquired forward of the information. The examine, it turned out, was essentially flawed. It didn’t evaluate the breast tumour tissue to wholesome tissue, and what went unreported was the truth that concentrations of parabens had been additionally discovered on the management slides, the clean slides with no breast tissue on them. Might which have been as a result of all of the slides used within the experiment had been cleaned, earlier than use, with an answer containing parabens?

During which case, had been the parabens within the unique tumour slides really simply on the slides, and never within the tumours in any respect? Discrediting the examine made completely no distinction to the continued storm within the cosmetics trade and the patron hysteria across the potential risks of parabens. Firms hustled to take away parabens from their merchandise and discover various preservatives. Nonetheless pure the pure foyer would love their merchandise to be, the merchandise want preservatives, or else they’ll develop (completely pure, however disagreeable) mould and grow to be unusable.

And so parabens grew to become the dangerous guys. There’s loads on the web about their ‘oestrogenic potential’ – the flexibility of parabens to imitate the consequences of oestrogen within the physique. Sure, that sounds actually damning. However beauty scientists and toxicologists beg to vary, mentioning that the oestrogenic potential of parabens is vanishingly small – hundreds of occasions lower than oestrogenic substances in meals similar to chickpeas and linseeds. You’d want a dose of butylparaben 25,000 occasions greater than what’s utilized in a beauty, to see this impact.

There have been many additional research on parabens and breast most cancers, however none of those has discovered any hyperlink between the 2. The parabens-are-bad foyer persists, citing the ‘beauty cocktail’ impact, suggesting small impact might grow to be extra of an issue if an individual makes use of many paraben-containing merchandise in a day. Beauty formulators and scientists dismiss the cocktail idea, and I’m completely with them. Most skincare merchandise and their elements sit on the floor of the pores and skin. It’s a battle to get them into the pores and skin tissue the place they’re wanted. They don’t merely slip down by the layers, get absorbed into the bloodstream, and begin creating havoc.

The European Scientific Committee on Client Security considers parabens to be secure. So does the American FDA. However that isn’t going to cease the rumour-mill or put the parabens-genie again in its bottle. The misinformation has unfold extensively, and the natural-and-clean magnificence actions have perpetuated on-line considerations round parabens. Making this worse, most of us don’t perceive science nicely sufficient to argue successfully towards the misinformation and distortions. In consequence, folks have determined that parabens are a foul factor, and see ‘free from parabens’ as a transparent profit when it’s said on packaging. As a journalist, I discover editors have little curiosity in tales alongside the strains of ‘old-style preservatives not as dangerous as they’ve been made out to be’.
Many skincare firms have advised me privately that they don’t have an issue with parabens, however the firms can’t embrace parabens of their formulations as a result of shoppers worry them so strongly. This matter isn’t going to go away, however actually, there’s nothing mistaken with parabens.

One final thought: Parabens are extensively used within the meals trade as preservatives. I believe an terrible lot of people that worry parabens in skincare don’t know they’re consuming them…

What’s Fallacious with Mineral Oil?
One other ingredient condemned by pure magnificence followers is mineral oil, one of many longest-standing, least expensive and mostly used beauty elements.

What’s mineral oil?
Mineral oil is a by-product of the method that makes petrol, so it’s not remotely ‘inexperienced’ or environmentally pleasant – however is it really dangerous for the pores and skin, as folks assume? No, it’s not. Mineral oil makes a extremely efficient moisturiser as a result of it’s so ‘occlusive’, which suggests it sits on the floor of the pores and skin and holds in moisture. Many individuals love utilizing Johnson’s Child Oil on damp pores and skin after a bathe, to ‘seal in’ moisture; many others love Bio-Oil for softening the pores and skin. These are each created from mineral oil. Petroleum jelly, one other by-product of petrol manufacture, which most of us know as Vaseline, works nicely to maintain lips comfortable (once more, by sealing in moisture).

So mineral oil has its makes use of. Nevertheless it has been demonised over latest years by the favored and vocal natural-skincare group, to the extent that most individuals assume they need to keep away from it as a result of it’s in some way ‘dangerous’. It actually isn’t.

Right here’s what folks assume is mistaken with mineral oil:
It ‘clogs’ the pores and skin. Mineral oil could be very efficient at maintaining moisture within the pores and skin – therefore the longstanding observe of utilizing oil on damp pores and skin after a bathe, to ‘seal in’ moisture.

It blocks pores and causes spots. Properly, technically, highly-refined mineral oil is non-comedogenic (which suggests it doesn’t comprise elements which are identified to dam pores), as a result of its massive molecules are too huge to stuff themselves into the openings of pores. However as a result of it’s so efficient at sealing over the pores and skin, in case your pores and skin is buzzing with pimples micro organism and has pores which are already threatening to dam due to hormonal imbalances, mineral oil shouldn’t be a useful factor to unfold throughout it. So no, simply don’t use mineral-oil merchandise for those who’re vulnerable to spots.

It ‘suffocates’ the pores and skin and stops it from ‘respiratory’. The pores and skin doesn’t have a respiratory system; it doesn’t ‘breathe’, so overlaying your pores and skin in oil received’t cease it respiratory (and no, Jill Masterson, the character within the Bond movie Goldfinger, who died from ‘pores and skin suffocation’ after being painted with gold paint – that couldn’t occur IRL). However, as I’ve mentioned, mineral oil makes a really efficient barrier, so it may assist cease water escaping from the pores and skin, which retains pores and skin higher moisturised.

It’s regarded as cancer-causing. Some parts of industrial-grade mineral oil have been discovered to be carcino- genic, however these parts are usually not present in cosmetic-grade mineral oil. Different considerations embrace the suggestion – not more than a suggestion for the time being – that mineral-oil hydrocarbons might ‘contaminate’ the physique, probably by being absorbed by the pores and skin, although we additionally take up these pollution from meals and from the air.

So relying in your views about skincare and its origins, you might wish to keep away from mineral oil.

Do I put mineral oil on my pores and skin? Sure, however not usually, simply because I’m all the time attempting out new merchandise, and most newer merchandise don’t comprise it.
Mineral oil might not be a contemporary or eco-friendly selection for skincare, however it isn’t evil incarnate. I do know a few beauty docs who apply it at night time on prime of their costly skin- renewing and hydrating night time serums, particularly so as to hold moisture within the pores and skin, even across the eyes. And sure, I do nonetheless attain for the Vaseline as a lip-smoother or Vaseline Intensive Care lotion as a physique moisturiser every now and then.

What’s Fallacious with Sulphates?
One other extensively used ingredient that attracts widespread vilification is sulphates.

What are sulphates?
Sulphates are a gaggle of elements that assist merchandise to foam up and produce lather. Sulphates are detergents – efficient de-greasing brokers – so you will see them in physique washes, bubble baths, and foaming face washes, in addition to shampoos and toothpastes.

What do folks assume is mistaken with sulphates?
Sulphates can irritate the pores and skin. Additionally, relying on their concentra- tion, many individuals really feel sulphates can wash relatively extra pure oils out of the pores and skin than is sweet for it. And ‘detergent’ sounds a bit blunt for a product you’d be utilizing in your face, doesn’t it?

The principle forms of sulphates that are available in for criticism are: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS). That is an efficient lather- producing ingredient; it’s additionally low-cost, so it’s extensively used. However SLS can also be a well known pores and skin irritant. In actual fact it’s irritating sufficient for use as a management in exams for pores and skin irritancy of different substances. That is what has led to its dangerous popularity. How might we intentionally put an ingredient – or as many would phrase it, a ‘chemical’, which makes it sound even worse – into merchandise that everybody makes use of? The easy reply is as a result of nearly each product SLS is utilized in is a wash-off, and most of the people aren’t delicate sufficient to SLS for it to be an issue in merchandise which are solely in touch with the pores and skin for a brief stretch of time as a shampoo or a face-wash. However in case you are delicate to SLS, then it’s one to keep away from. And regardless of the scaremongering web sites might say, SLS shouldn’t be carcinogenic.

Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES). It is a shut cousin of SLS, however not as low-cost and a bit much less irritating to the pores and skin. However then each these sulphates have the potential to annoy the pores and skin, as does some other ingredient ending in -sulphate which is used to interchange SLS and SLES. Sulphate-replacement ingre- dients like cocomidopropyl betane, which is often simply used as a lather-booster, don’t have the identical potential to supply lather on their very own.

The underside line? Sulphates are solely an issue in case you are delicate to them – wherein case, search for merchandise with various foaming elements; and keep in mind that foam is the best means of transporting dust away from the pores and skin.

What’s Fallacious with Silicones?
Silicones are one other hapless group of elements that has fallen foul of widespread opinion.

What are silicones?
Silicones are elements derived from sand that are utilized in skincare and make-up to provide a silky, velvety really feel to merchandise, to assist them unfold, and to assist moisturise the pores and skin. Silicones are utilized in haircare to clean the hair and shield it from warmth styling and humidity.
What are silicones referred to as on the packaging? The one you see most frequently is dimethicone, which is a silicon polymer. Different elements whose names finish in -cone, similar to methicone and phenyl trimethicone, are additionally silicones, as are elements ending – siloxane (similar to cyclopentasiloxane).

What do folks assume is mistaken with silicones?
Individuals’s objections to silicones are a lot the identical as with mineral oil merchandise. Silicones are thought to smother and block the pores and skin and to impress breakouts of pimples, to forestall lively elements attending to the pores and skin, and to be arduous to take away.

Do silicones deserve this dangerous popularity? No. As a result of they unfold nicely and type a clean overlaying on the floor of the pores and skin, they’re good at serving to maintain moisture within the pores and skin – they’re usually beneficial for serving to scars heal, for that reason – however they’re nonetheless permeable to fuel and moisture, which implies that they’re not forming a watertight seal in your pores and skin. They don’t block pores, so they’re ‘non-comedogenic’.

Silicones don’t cease lively elements stepping into the pores and skin. They themselves will keep on the floor of the pores and skin, however lively elements inside a formulation that comprises silicones will discover their means downwards into the pores and skin by them. In make-up merchandise, silicones can assist sit back the sunshine, to blur the look of wrinkles, which is all the time useful for a uninteresting complexion.

The underside line: there’s nothing mistaken with silicones. They received’t damage your pores and skin, nor trigger spots, nor harm your hair, nor hurt the setting, for that matter. However for those who discover they don’t go well with you, then in fact, search for options.

In case you don’t like every of the above elements, truthful sufficient. It’s completely your selection. I simply wished to level out that they’re not fairly such dangerous guys as they’re often made out to be.

Alice Hart-Davis, Magnificence Journalist, skincare skilled and creator of The Tweakments Information: Begin with Skincare.

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